Bag interfacing

We’ll compare the items we sell with other items in the market. We sell woven and non-woven, fleece, foam, light, sturdy, fusible, sew-in and self-adhesive stabilizers. And yes, we sell Vlieseline G700 and Decovil.

How a bag looks depends only partly on the fabric you use, the way a bag stands is primarily based on the interfacing and stabilizer material you use. Below you can find information on the products we sell and will be able to choose the correct product for your bag to have the structure and feel you want.

Why would you use interfacing and stabilizer?

You do not want a bag that collapses like a pudding unless you make a boho bag. On the other hand do you want a bag that is so stiff you cannot turn the bag after sewing?

You will need to reinforce your bag when you place rivets, bag feet, a lock, or straps so stress points are sturdy and wear well. So, the question you should ask yourself is which reinforcement is the best for the bag I will make?

To make your fabric ‘fit for bagmaking’

To make a bag, you can use any material that you to achieve the bag of your dreams. I have seen bags made from wood!

Cotton, canvas, faux leather, cork, or genuine leather are materials commonly used for bag making and each differ in weight, stiffness, backing, etc. Your interfacing/stabilizer needs to suit the material you choose.

Fabric with little or slight stretch is the most common for bag making but with the proper reinforcement, you can turn French terry or knit fabric into a material fit for bag making.

This document will not go into making bags from genuine leather. Totally different types of interfacing/stabilizers are used and adhesion to leather is different from fabric.

To stabilize your fabric bag so it stands or falls as you envision it

The perfect bag with the ideal structure is not the same for everyone. Some like a bag to fall along their body like the boho style. Others want a bag to stand up straight even when the bag is empty. Your reinforcement depends on what you want your bag to look like and what fabric you will use.

We hope to give you pointers to help you choose the proper reinforcement based on how you want your final project to look and feel. When using the same fabric and want the same effect as the pattern designer, use the recommended reinforcement. Otherwise, use the guide below as a reference.

What is the difference between stabilizer and interfacing?

Interfacing modifies the materials’ structure. It's usually applied directly to the fabric with heat-sensitive glue. A stabilizer is used to shape the bag and is placed between outer and lining fabric. Some are fusible, others sew-in. Sew-in stabilizers often yield better results.

Some materials act both as interfacing and stabilizer, so the categories can overlap.

Types of fabric reinforcement

Woven reinforcements

Woven interfacing feels like fabric, has thread direction, and is strong. It's ideal for thin fabrics or to eliminate stretch. Products: Quickfuse Skin, Quickfuse Light, Vlieseline G700, Quickfuse Soft, Wovenfix2, Quickfuse Canvas (heavy).

Non-woven reinforcements

Non-wovens vary from paper-like to leather-like. They’re used for structure but can wrinkle more easily. Use woven lining or apply stabilizer to lining to avoid wrinkles. Products: Bouncyfirm 160 Lux, Decovil Light, Bouncyfirm 210, Decovil I, Easy Web.

Point reinforcement

Reinforce full bags, panels, or just high-stress points like strap attachments or hardware. Use thin woven interfacing or Decovil Light. Save scraps for this purpose instead of buying Wonder Dots.

Types of stabilizer

Soft structure stabilizers

For soft body or light shaping. Products: Fusible fleece, Ronofix One (both fusible).

Foam for firm structure

3–4mm thick foam with tricot layer. Compressible, lightweight, bounces back. Great for laptop sleeves, backpack backs, strap padding. Sew-in preferred over fusible. Product: Vlieseline Style-vil.

Extra stiff reinforcements

Includes plastic, foam, acrylic. Used in flaps, bag bottoms, etc. Products: Easyfoam 2mm (self-adhesive), Quick2fuse Heavy (double fusible), and simple plastic cutting mats.

Does the brand make the quality?

In 2024, not necessarily. Vlieseline (EU/Asia) and Pellon (US) are most recognized, but many general terms exist. At Zipper zoo we’ve sourced high-quality alternatives from smaller manufacturers.

Final note

Never say ‘Vlieseline’ to mean all bag reinforcements. It’s not sexy, but it literally makes or breaks your bag.